COOKING WITH RUM

Historians will tell you that the origins of rum are unknown. They’ll point to records from various trans-Atlantic shipments where rum was mentioned as a profitable export and they will present letters written by dignitaries who scribble about rum’s deliciousness. This paperwork is only a piece of the picture. What is not taken into account is the most obvious: Rum is the result of African labor. Africans were familiar with fermenting (a process required in order to make rum) long before they were taken to the Caribbean. But letters and documentation that would have been produced by Africans were not taken into account back then. Instead, they were just taken.

It is from this perspective – an understanding of how history is bent in favor of the oppressor – that I proceed with this Island and Spice issue. Rum is from the Caribbean.

Rightly so, the “Cooking With Rum” cover features Nina Compton – the award-winning chef in New Orleans who is behind Compère Lapin and the Bywater American Bistro. We talk with Ms. Compton about why she decided to toss out the brandy and cook instead with rum and about how an increasing national interest in Caribbean food is changing the ways she is doing business.

In “Liquid Spice,” we discovered that it is more likely to find a recipe that includes wine over one that calls for rum. Why is that? It turns out the answer may have a lot to do with 18th-century politics. Yes. I was surprised by the answer. You might be, too.

For the story, we also speak with cooks and chefs to see how they use rum in their kitchens. Be sure to read to the end of the article for tips on how you can start cooking with rum right now.

Let us know what you think about our baked chicken dish that is brined in a rum mixture and then glazed in it. (Hence the name: rum rum chicken). The result is one juicy and delicious bird.

And lastly, it’s worth noting that this issue marks the start of our second year. This magazine would not be possible if it weren’t for an amazing team of editors, photographers and designers. Thank you for dedicating your time and talent to making something worth talking about. To our loyal readers who are sending in their stories and recipes and sharing, thank you, as well. Please continue to share your stories with us and our stories with your friends.

Cheers (insert rum on the rocks beverage) to another year of growing with each of you.

With gratitude,
Rochelle Oliver